Osh

With it’s mostly Uzbek population Osh is genuinely different from the Kyrgyz capital Bishkek. This has all to do with it’s location in the Fergana valley, south of the northern branch of the Tien Shan mountains. This makes the city hardly accessible overland from the north during winter. If you decide, in more moderate conditions, to go by car to or from the north side of the country, then make this eight hour ride during the day. You will be delighted by astonishing views, cosy yurt-camps and amazing rock formations whilst conquering the 5000 meters high pass. One might even choose to camp in one of the nomadic villages up there, or just take a break for a well deserved mug of Kimiz (fermented horse milk) and a tasty shashlik.


Osh is a pleasant town, distinctive from other main cities by not being build during the Russian era but just taken over. With it’s 3000 years of history it’s one of the oldest settlements in Central Asia, in other times well known for being a hub on the silk road and it’s own production of silk.

Nowadays Osh is appreciated for the Sunday market, your perfect place to bargain your Kyrgyz hat Uzbek silk and enjoy the Central Asian culture.

For Soviet-lovers there’s no reason to skip Osh. After roaming the market you could wander along the stretched lanes, guided by tall trees, which attempt to hide the unfashionable Soviet-housing from your view. Crossing the river at Alisher Navoi street brings you at the Opera hall, which marks the crossroads with Lenina street. Following this street to the south let’s you discover a three-storied yurt. Further along you’ll feel somewhat short-made between the government building and a tall statue of Lenin, waving gloriously to the empty square, not seeing what happens in the depth behind his back. There a decaying children’s park is situated, worth sneaking in for the contrast it has with the statue. On a sunny day children might be swimming joyful in one of the few filled-up fountain basins, while the rest of the park seems mostly occupied by young couples.

Provided you’re not from one of the 28 countries freed from this hassle, you might want to arrange your obligatory registration at OVIR 800 meters southwards from Lenin’s statue. The office is able to do this during the week and on Saturday’s till 2 PM, as the writer found out Saturday at 2.15 PM.

For lunch or dinner you could reside in one of the many chaichanas around the market for well-made pilaf (rice with vegetables and meat), traditionally baked samsa (baked dough with meat and/or vegetables) or a bowl of delicious lachman (noodle soup). Consider taking green or black tea with your meal. After all that’s where the restaurant is named after.